Africa’s fashion industry seeks coordinated growth push

Africa’s fashion sector gathered fresh momentum in Nairobi as Core Fashion Kenya, working with the United Nations Economic Commission for Africa, convened designers, manufacturers, policymakers and investors during the Hub of Africa Fashion Week to map pathways for scaling an industry valued at about $31 billion. The discussions centred on moving beyond fragmented national markets to build continent-wide supply chains, strengthen manufacturing depth and unlock export growth while embedding sustainability and decent work.

Organisers said the forum brought together decision-makers from apparel manufacturing, retail, logistics, creative design and finance to address structural bottlenecks that have long limited Africa’s ability to capture more value from fashion. While the continent produces cotton and boasts a large, youthful consumer base, much of the value addition still occurs outside Africa due to limited industrial capacity, uneven access to finance and weak cross-border trade links.

Core Fashion Kenya framed the meeting as a bridge between creativity and industrial policy, arguing that fashion can be a serious economic lever when aligned with trade facilitation, skills development and investment promotion. Officials from the ECA highlighted modelling that shows apparel and textiles as among the sectors with the fastest employment multipliers, particularly for women and young people, if supported by coherent regional strategies under the African Continental Free Trade Area.

Speakers underscored that the $31 billion valuation reflects both domestic consumption and exports, yet Africa’s share of global apparel exports remains modest compared with Asia. Industry executives said the gap is not a question of design talent but of scale, consistency and compliance. Buyers increasingly demand traceability, environmental standards and reliable delivery schedules, areas where African producers face higher costs and fragmented certification regimes.

At the Hub of Africa Fashion Week, manufacturers from East and West Africa described capacity expansions aimed at shortening lead times and reducing reliance on imported inputs. Several firms pointed to investments in spinning, weaving and finishing as essential to retaining value locally, while logistics providers discussed regional warehousing and faster customs clearance as tools to make African suppliers more competitive.

Policy officials acknowledged that industrial upgrading requires patient capital and predictable regulation. Representatives linked to the ECA said targeted incentives for green manufacturing, harmonised standards and skills programmes could help small and medium-sized enterprises meet international buyer requirements. They also noted growing interest from development finance institutions in blended finance structures that de-risk early-stage investments in apparel parks and shared infrastructure.

Sustainability featured prominently, reflecting pressure from consumers and regulators in export markets. Designers and producers argued that Africa has an opportunity to leapfrog into lower-impact production by combining renewable energy, water-efficient processing and circular design practices. Advocates for ethical sourcing stressed the importance of formalising work, improving wages and enforcing safety standards to ensure growth does not come at the expense of labour rights.

Digital tools were presented as accelerators for market access. Platforms that connect designers directly with buyers, manage orders and provide demand forecasting were showcased as ways to reduce inventory risk and improve cash flow. Analysts said e-commerce and data-driven merchandising can help African brands reach diaspora consumers and niche markets without heavy upfront investment in physical retail.

Financing remained a central challenge. Entrepreneurs described high borrowing costs and limited access to working capital as constraints on scaling. Bankers and investors at the forum discussed revenue-based financing and purchase-order-backed lending as alternatives better suited to the fashion cycle. There was also emphasis on export credit facilities and guarantees to support first-time exporters.

Education and skills development drew attention, with calls to modernise fashion and textile curricula to include production engineering, compliance management and digital marketing alongside design. Industry leaders said partnerships between factories, universities and training institutes are critical to building a workforce capable of operating modern equipment and meeting international standards.